Way back in the 70s, when I was a very small boy, Vellore Fort Maidan (Vellore town is some 120 kms from Chennai in Tamil Nadu) used to have some very unusual vendors :- One selling Root slice of a very special root ( they used to call it BHUMI CHAKRA KIZHANGU ) – the 2 or 3 feet high root column will be placed in a wet sack, and the vendor used to thinly slice the root and give it for 25 paise. The root was supposed to have medicinal qualities which can not only heal stomach disorders, but also give other benefits such as improving immunity against diseases, etc. Another occasional vendor was the one selling a milk sweet made from the first milk given out by the cow after the calf is born – this milk, called SEEMA PAL, is supposed to be very nutritious. There was also the fried bees for the Non veg eaters – the fort maidan had an unusual ground bee population – just before it rained, a large number of ground bees (called YEESAL in Tamil) used to come out of the ground at dusk (these bee stings don’t hurt at all – in fact, many will vouchsafe that they don’t sting!) in thousands searching for light – the bee vendor will simply attract them using a gas lamp and catch them in the net, fry and sell them – I have personally never eaten them, but this was supposed to be a delicacy in those days.
Then there was the Kolamav (white powder used for rangoli) seller, the occasional Date seller who will give dates in exchange for iron waste that we dispose. Then there was this Bhoom Bhoom Mattu Kaaran, called Gudu Guduppaandi, who will come with his bull, bedecked with all kinds of finery, and try to predict the future and earn some money. There were other regulars : the raw ground nut seller, the fruit and vegetable vendor, the regular greens lady, etc. In Madurai, one could find idli vendors even in past midnight, vending idlis and dosas and omelettes along with hot, spicy chutney. Like this, in every city, village, and town, vendors who once were doing brisk businesses, have vanished….
The very fact that you could sell something odd like the root slice I was talking about, or like just small items that one would normally not expect in a shopping mall, speaks of the business prospects of any place – be it a dish to be eaten, or an ornamental piece to be kept on the table.
But today the scene is different, with many of the street vendors avoiding to come to residential areas. The greens vendors have considerably reduced, because they discovered that more and more people are buying the same greens to the shopping malls. The same greens that the greens lady would give for 3 rupees, and for which we will haggle baggle for 50 paise less, we will very dignifiedly give Rs.10 in a shopping mall – the only add on will be a plastic cover, to increase pollution.
Handicrafts, which comprised a huge portion of the Indian economy in 1947, have somehow been pushed to the background. Nobody wants handmade items anymore. All the children want are foreign toys – Who wants the mud doll, or who wants the wooden doll? So, these dolls have become very costly, because of so many factors, including limited supply. The makers of these toys are always scared that it won’t sell. Which is why if you want handicrafts, you have to go to a showroom. Sad to see the average Indian Middle class family not wanting mud toys anymore than they would like to see the back of wooden toys – It is gadgets, gadgets, gadgets all the way. Perhaps this is what is called Science dominating Art….
Whatever happened to the fairs that were so common sometime back? We used to have evening bazaars where one could get everything, from a pin to a pistol – Most of these small vendors used to trick or cheat also – but somehow, it always added colour to life, when one sees these vendors.
But over the last few years of this decade, these kinds of vendors have simply vanished, especially in cities. Instead, huge shopping malls have cropped up everywhere. All over India, commercial and residential complexes are coming up at lands which once produced crops. There is a huge shift in the spending pattern of the Great Indian Middle class families. No longer are they content with indigenously produced goods. Right from Cornflakes to Colourful shirts, they are looking for foreign brands. Streets that never had cars are now fully lined up with cars on either side. Many families have two cars. India, all of sudden, has become a paradise for foreign companies that wants to sell its products and services. In short, India, has suddenly become a seller’s dream.
If one were to ask, where have all the vendors gone? The answers can be found in a series of answers. Nobody trusts a street vendor anymore, especially in cities where terrorist threat perceptions are more. Street Vendors have themselves diversified into other businesses or taken up jobs. Families of such vendors do not want to continue the traditional business. Instead, many branch out into other jobs. The vendors themselves are seeking other vocational avenues. And suddenly, the ordinary street vendor has become extinct in many cities and places. Some have been bitten by the development bug (Which is good if that has happened) so that their families are now trained in computers or IT field or some other field other than his/her art of vending – that is also nice. Otherwise, if he/she has pushed their families out of this business because they themselves could not survive, then it is bad…..
I had to take it upon myself to write about these vanishing vendors because sometime back, I spoke to a journalist friend from a reputed financial paper and asked her to write about these vanishing vendors. She told me that her editors would never approve of it if she did ever write in about vendors. Vendors? She echoed. Her voice still echoes inside my head. In my opinion, Ordinary vendors only make up a bright and vibrant economy – be it beedis or bindis that they sell.
Simply great blog OM. This interests me as I keenly follow such changes in our economic scenario.
These vendors used to add a personal touch to their sales, as they were aware of your likes & dislikes. We used to wait for them every day. Even small provision/vegetable shops are also vanishing in our area. Only flower vendors are still available in the scene.
The personalised service is not available in any of the malls. The quality of service needs to be improved. Many products with expired validity dates are being sold at discount rates.
What we can do? Just simply complain....
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Thanks, Hari. We are only seeing the metamorphosis of the big swallowing the small in today's cities. Huge Shopping Malls have sprung up everywhere where there have been theatres and the like. Unfortunately, today's modern generation prefers bar coded Keerai (greens) packed in a plastic bag......
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Well... I can so completely identify with the joy you've expressed about the vendors. Whenever I went to my native place in Erode (Tamil Nadu), as a small child, I remember having brought mud dolls/clay dolls for Rs.20 and other beautiful artifacts like handicrafts et all from all the talented vendors.
One such vendor from the town of Erode always greets me till date when I go there. He is now old and his son, (who is a little ten years older to me) is working for a mill as a admin person. However, there is a glint of sadness of his face always, whenever I enthusiastically ask him if he'll ever get me those beautiful dolls again!
Thank you for the wonderful article, Om!
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Thanks, Sneha. I too, remember with fondness some of the vendors who added colour to my life when I was small. There was this milkman, who supplied cow's milk (these days, everywhere, it is buffalo milk only!) who used to always pour some raw milk into my small mouth (My poor mother never understood why I was so eager to get the milk everyday!!) whenever he supplied milk to us.
Till some years back, Erode, was one of the best places where one can get small handmade goods, from toys to clothes - and I think still, many things made of cloth are still sold there, if I am not mistaken - But as you rightly said, mud toys have all but vanished from many places in India - including Calcutta, where the number of people going in for mud toys during Durga Puja is reducing year by year.....
Thanks, Sneha, for relating to this article, because unless one has seen these things, like you have, it is difficult to see the beauty of such vendors...
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Yes, Om. You are right. Erode was one of the best places to get handmade goods like toys and clothes. Infact, it still has a huge textile market. However, it is now better known for its manufacture of turmeric. That said, I agree... Calcutta (not the Kolkata we know now) had the best karigars who made mud toys, et all. To add to it, I'm in Mumbai and I hardly get to see any such delight...its rare. I recently got myself some mud pots and painted them. Now there are different plants growing in the pot
I am glad you have such a depth of thought as to write about such issues. Do try considering publishing it all...There are many art and lifestyle magazines that may be keen.
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Thanks, Sneha. Nice to know that you have painted the flower pots - these days, no one really cares for mud pots - in salem, I have seen mud pot vendors crossing over to cement pots!
Regarding publishing my writings, thanks for the compliment....my job allows me very little time. I hope my wife, who is also a writer in this website, decides to publish her writings and mine together (like Colleen and Hugh Gantzer)someday!
Thanks again.
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Yes, Om, I love mud pots and anything made naturally... The cement pots really look so lifeless and concrete. The mud pots have a charm of their own.
You should surely publish with your wife. Btw, who is that lucky lady ?
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Sneha,
Nice to know that you like mudpots – the smell of caked mud when water is poured is very nice!
Have you tried glazed pottery? They are costly, but as ornamental pots they are quite good, especially if your plants are not very demanding (demanding of water that is) and plus, they are very attractive. The only problem would be that you may not be able to shift the pots to various places often.
Yes, I hope I am able to publish some work along with my wife someday.
Regarding the lady in question, (you have said lucky lady, but I think my wife will want to differ!) you have put me in a fix – because I had promised my wife that we shall meet in the forum purely as critiques of each other! – anyway, now that you have asked, I have to spill the beans, much to my wife’s consternation! – Yes – the name is Shail Raghuvanshi
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Yes, I completely agree... the smell of the mud pots when one pours water is so blissful... Reminds me of my unforgettable childhood memories. I've got the art of gardening from my mother.
Well, Well, Well... I hope you did ask Shail once before spilling the beans. That said, I had the gut instinct that it must be her, seeing the various comments on her articles, and other posts. Well, do you mean Palakkad by Palghat? Many people spell it that way. I've been to Salem quite a number of times. It would be a good idea to be with Shail and your son though
Also, I'd like to add that Shail being SUCH AN AMAZING WRITER and you being a MASTER OF WORDS too, both of you'll should consider publication together. Hope to read both of you in print someday
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I too, learnt gardening from my mother, who had a "green" thumb.
Palghat is the Railway spelling ( I am in Rlys) Yes, it is Palakkad. When we were in Palakkad, Shail was working in the Central school as a spoken engish teacher, and an acquaintance who knew us separately, became very excited when he saw us shopping together with our son - he came and asked me in a whisper, "You know her? She is my son's teacher in school" I smiled and said, "Yes, I know her. She is my son's teacher in school too" and left it at that - Two or three weeks later, I was invited for the school function where the new principal introduced me to my wife! All this is because Shail still retains her maiden name. I often tease Shail on this, because in Indian society, which is so used to calling one as "Mrs", it is very difficult to retain the maiden name after marriage. She also realises this, and we have some fun once in a while like this. Once, she could not find her name in the train reservation chart, and she started panicking. I cooly suggested, "Did you look up under Mrs.Om Prakash?" ( Since my office colleague had made the reservation, I surmised he would have simply put her as Mrs.Om )- she did, and she was relieved that day that she was, indeed, Mrs.Om Prakash!
Thanks for your idea of a book. Wife willing, we might have the book, someday!
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Great, Om. It feels so good to hear the real life incident. And it is hilarious, to say the least. I really really think that such an talented couple ought to have atleast one book published together
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Your blog brings out the unique charm of those days. I remember the vendors outside schools and colleges during the 60s and 70s used to churn out the most delectable goodies which would have put the present-day fastfood joints to shame.
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True, Padma. There was this nicely cut mango slices with red chilli mixed masala, naavalpalams(raspberries) sugarcane, gooseberries, thil laddoos, chikkis, crisp wafer leftovers from the church after cutting out the round ones for holy communion, (they would be mostly for free) ice cream sticks, (i am unable to recall the names of some fruits and berries) - today, we have all kinds of chips and cheese balls (God knows what chemicals they mix in them) and coke and pepsi.
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Well,if you are missing the vendors, you can come to Jayanagar,Bangalore where we still have vendors selling all sorts of things on our streets from morning till night,including carpets.
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Madam,
even in Salem, we have Bihari boys selling carpets street to street. And in many cities and towns today, we STILL have the vendors, but they are not the usual type of vendors that we have seen in our yesteryears. These modern vendors are shrewd, who sell mostly things that we DON"T need on a DAILY basis - like these carpets for instance. I still remember in 70s, when I was a small boy, whenever I visited my elder brother in Bangalore, there was this fellow selling Hot Dosas and snacks in a push cart - I used to make a fuss if I was not fed from the push cart goodies - and my brother used to get a shouting from my mother for spoiling me. Today, in Bangalore, especially near the Bus Terminus opp the City Station, one has to be wary of vendors.
So, you see, I am not missing the vendors - all I am saying is that vendors who used to sell mud pots and mud toys and rare greens and vegetables and medicinal herbs and fresh honey - are all out of business today, because people don't buy them these days. On the other hand, you can find vendors selling electronic goods on the streets today.
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Extremely interesting blog. I have eaten fried moths (not bees) as a child and come home after outings to fairs with half-eaten sugar garlands round my neck. (The virulent colours would be enough to sicken anyone!) We make a nutmeg flavoured custard out of the milk you mention. It is called 'bali nu doodh' by Parsis.I still make it a point to buy most of my vegetables and fruit just outside town from roadside vendors and yes, I carry my own cloth bag!I really liked this blog.
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Thanks,Madam. In Tamil Nadu, the new concept of farmer's market (Uzhavar Sandhai) introduced a few years back, is helping the farmers and vendors to survive, especially the small and medium farmers and vendors.
And when we buy from roadside vendors, there is a kind of warmth between the seller and the buyer - we feel free to bargain, and we get to choose the vegetables - which is missing in an AC supermarket environ where dour looking attendants punch the bills wishing we were gone
Thanks again for the read, and yes, when I was a child, I relished and enjoyed the sugar candys very much in the fairs, whether the colours were sickening or not!
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They are still there, but a vanishing tribe, alongwith the trusted-if-slow neighbourhood grocer, sabjiwallah, etc. Replaced by the plastic-guzzling impersonal malls.
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True, they are there, but diminishing in number. Thanks Irene, for reading and commenting.
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That was a wonderful read Om. I remember my childhood too when my mother used to buy dolls or fruits from these vendors. I have fond memories of them and really miss them amidst today's fashionable and mobile world.
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Shail,
wait for some more years, and you will have mobile (literally) vendors, selling mobile phones!
Thanks.
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your blog reminds me of bartan(untensils)sellers who would come to our place and my mother used to buy steel bartans by exchanging old disposable clothes.
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This was there in Tamil Nadu also for a very long time, and I remember I used to watch my mother bargain with the bartan/cloth fellow for eversilver bartans when I was small. But now, this is not there at all except in some small towns.
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Good blog taking us back a few years! We do have fish vendors coming round in Pune and though we are not fish eaters I think this guy does good business here.
Other than him other vendors have almost disappeared.
Apparently this is what progress has done to us...
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Madam, after some years, these fish vendors ALSO will disappear, I am sure. Nowadays, you get nicely cleaned and cut fish, in vacuum packs in the supermarkets, and many have switched over. Sadly, the fish vendor, has to sell the fish fast (they go bad very easily, compared to meat) in the hot sun, and many households do not buy the fish unless he cleans, cuts and gives. In Calicut, I have seen vendors who come straight off the sea into the city - they are always sought after by the Malabar people for the freshness of the fish. But competition from big players will enter the fish vendor's area also, I am afraid.
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Extremely interesting. I am always concerned about the vanishing home remedies and 'nattu vaidyar' who would be consulted for many ailments such as jaundice, bone setting etc. I would like to invite you to read the following article, dealing with GM food and the complicity of multinationals and the government machinery in promoting them
http://socyberty.com/issues/free-markets-and-globalization/
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Madam,
I have read your link and commented too. It is really sad that we in India have given way to GM crops, and trying to interfere with Nature. As more and more multinational companies come up, they will be interested in building more and more malls - and we, mostly middle class people will simply lap it up irrespective of whether it is healthy or not. Sad, No?
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Yes;we are all nostalgic for the vendors of yesterday.Strangely, they do exist in our area in Bangalore. They sell greens and vegetables, they sharpen knives, sell carpets,have carts with bangles, necklaces and all sorts of fancy articles. They vend fruit, icecream,and at times cooking utensils. Most of them are regulars. We know them by name amd vice versa.What has vanished are the vendors who exchanged stainless steel vessels for old clothes. In their place there are people selling plastic buckets,shelves etc.Fortunately, our vendors with their cries are still here. Hope they will not disappear. Enjoyed your article.Prema
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Nice to know that in the place where you stay, vendors are still there - But if you look deeply, you will find that most of them, are not natives of Bangalore - and in as much as a person is NOT a native, they will try to go away to greener pastures, sooner or later. Thanks for reading the article and commenting.
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